Sun Sense
Let there be Light

With the extreme weather conditions we experience in Australia and our love of the great outdoors it pays to be extra vigilant with skin care regimes during our long hot summer. Not only do we have to contend with the diminishing O-Zone layer, most of us are aware that getting sunburned causes long-term damage that is irreparable. The damage of exposure may not be immediately evident so there can be a tendency to overlook protection.

The slip-slop-slap slogan has been well and truly drummed into our heads. Despite ongoing warnings and the risks associated with over exposure, almost one in three Australian’s will develop skin cancer with a reported 5 million experiencing sunburn each summer.  The likelihood of developing a serious skin cancer in Australia is about 1:200, although the statistics for a minor precancerous lesion or solar keratosis are considerably higher (K Farrow “Skin Deep” p.163). Sun worshipping should definitely be considered a thing of the past when we didn’t know any better! The best active ingredient is to avoid prolonged exposure and use commonsense methods.

Common sense protective measures to minimize the risk of sunburn;
•   Avoid the sun between the hours of 10am –3pm especially in the height of summer
•   Tan progressively. Expose yourself for a maximum of 10 minutes at the beginning of the season until you have safely acquired a light tan
•   Wear a broad brimmed hat or cap as it will reduce the effect of UV radiation to the eyes.
•   Sunglasses, wrap around eyewear and prescriptive lenses will also provide protection to the eyes. Read labels carefully to ascertain that the lenses are broad spectrum and will absorb both UV-B and UV-A
•   Wear protective clothing such as rash, long sleeved or cotton shirts.
•   Hug a tree and enjoy its shade

Sunscreens are definitely a contentious issue. Our reliance on using them as a protective barrier that will shield us from damage is sheer ignorance, especially when we know very little about how they function. These days there is so much hype about using them on a daily basis, even if you are indoors for the majority of the day.

Just about everywhere you look this message is reinforced. Equally as concerning are the chemicals that are used in sunscreens that are supposedly there to protect us. The Cancer Council of Australia acknowledges that there is a lack of information regarding the long-term usage of sunscreens although regular usage of sunscreen over seven years significantly reduced the rates of skin cancer. (Lancet)
The active ingredients in sunscreen are usually of two types: Chemical (active organics) and physical (passive inorganics). Chemical sunscreens absorb the UV-A and UV-B rays and include ingredients such as PABA or Octyl Methoxycinnamate. Physical sunscreens are usually micro fine metals such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. These stay on the surface of the skin and diffuse the UV-A and UV-B rays from the sun by creating a protective barrier and are less likely to irritate the skin as they sit on the surface. SPF factor tells you how long a product can keep your skin from burning in the sun’s rays when you use it.

Research published in the New Scientist journal states that exposure to the sun could make the UVB filter Octyl Methoxycinnamate (OMC) even more deadly. This is a chemical commonly found in over 90% of sunscreens. The Norwegian Radiation Protection Authority found that half of mouse cells died when they came into contact with a dose of OMC considerably less than what is used in sunscreens. However, there are a number of difficulties of extending this research from mice to humans (The West Australian Oct 6, 2000 p.4).

Other studies identify the ingredient PBSA (2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid) as having the potential to destroy human cells or trigger DNA damage (Chemical Research in Toxicology, Queens’ University). Most of the active ingredients in sunscreens are known as photon activators that may actually increase the possibilities of cancers rather than decrease them. Their role is to absorb UV radiation which in turn becomes energised when exposed to the sun. As the particles return to their former state they transmit energy to the skin.

In 1996 The Physicians Weekly reported FDA concerns regarding synergistic chemical ingredients used in sunscreens when it was discovered that a combination of different agents caused skin lesions which were not produced by any of the chemicals when used independently of each other (Dingle & Brown p35). PABA, another popular active ingredient, is known to irritate sensitive skin.

Ingredients to Avoid
The majority of sunscreens usually contain one or more of the commonly used active organics. Fortunately, some are now being phased out due to the possibility of absorption. 

Octyl-methoxycinnamate - may produce free radicals (singlet molecular oxygen) known to be toxic to cells (1)

Titanium dioxide - can cause DNA damage (the cells genetic material) due to superoxide radicals, active oxygen radicals and hydroxyl radicals when exposed to light

Oxybenzone - is rapidly oxidised in the presence of light and inactivates important antioxidant systems in the skin (the skin’s natural protection system)

PABA - may produce free radicals and phototoxic reactions in the presence of light

Cinoxate - may cause DNA damage (sister chromatid exchanges)

Padimate-O - may produce free radicals in presence of light (singlet molecular oxygen) and substantially increases indirect damage (strand breaks in DNA) when in contact with cells Dibenzoylmethane and Parsol 1789 - can produce free radicals responsible for direct DNA damage (strand breaks)

Methyl sinapate - may cause DNA damage (chromosome aberrations and sister chromatid exchanges) (Phenylbenzimidazole sulphonic acid and 2-phenylbenzimidazole - can act as photosensitisers of DNA damage when exposed to sunlight or UV- B radiation

The list of documented scientific research that has been carried out in the recent past in regard to sunscreens is comprehensive and readily available. The most prudent choice is to avoid all of the above chemicals as the long-term compounded effects and combinations of certain chemicals and their toxicity is still virtually unknown mainly because this type of research is time consuming and extremely costly. Instead choose a safer alternative that uses passive inorganics and natural plant extracts as active ingredients.

Safe Ingredients
•   Vitamin A – Retonoid assists in the prevention of wrinkles due to sun exposure
•   Vitamin C – protects against burns and may assist in reversing sun damage.
•   Witch hazel – functions as an anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory
•   Aloe Vera – has soothing and calming properties and may assist in recovery from sunburn and reduce the risk of skin cancer
•   Green Tea - contains antioxidant polyphenols and can prevent and possibly reverse sun damage
•   Calendula - stimulates new cell growth and reduces inflammation
•   Milk Thistle (Silymarin)- applied topically has been effective in treating tumors due to UV exposure
•   Alpha Lipoic Acid  (ALA) – a powerful antioxidant and assists with smoothing and lifting the skin
•   DMAE (Deanol bitartrate) – has anti-inflammatory properties and may diminish the appearance of scars and improve muscle tone.

Some oils contain natural SPF properties in particular shea nut butter which the Africans have used for centuries. Tests show that on its own without the addition of a chemical SPF it prevented burning when exposed to UV rays (JM Lwoff & JR Boissier Journal de Pharmacologie, 1, 35, 1970). Other oils that have a slight sunscreen effect include avocado, macadamia and sesame (SPF 4-8), although there is no scientific data readily available in regard to their specific SPF.

Assess your risk and take adequate precautions
•   If you have fair skin or light coloured eyes
•   Personal history- if you have been previously  diagnosed then you are at high risk
•   Family history – have 2 or more members been affected by any type of cancer
•   Unusual moles with irregular edges, raised moles that change colour, shape or itch
•   Chronic sun exposure
•   Freckled skin or skin that has moles
•   History of severe to moderate burning due to sun exposure, especially during childhood
•   Medications that may increase sensitivity and compromise resistance

In favour of sunlight, a moderate amount of sun each day is important for the body to manufacture vitamin D. Seasonal affective disorder is an example of how sun deficiency can affect mental health. Recent studies also suggest sunlight deprivation may actually increase the risk of breast, colon and prostate cancer. (Studzinski, G.P. & Moore, D.C. “Sunlight-Can it prevent as well as cause cancer?” Cancer Res).  Applying an SPF of any strength and going out into the midday sun is not going to prevent damage and in case you need another reason to avoid the harsh UV rays they also cause premature ageing in the form of wrinkles, pigmentation, blemishes, coarseness, broken veins, and scaly patches.

Mukti is the founder of Mukti Botanicals a range of natural organic skin and personal care products. She is a qualified natural therapist, beauty therapist and aromatherapist and is currently completing a degree in Cosmetic Science.